Buku Lathunthu la Nsalu ndi Zida Zovala Zaukwati

Hillary Hoffpower ndi wolemba wazaka zopitilira zisanu ndi chimodzi muzaukwati.Ntchito yake yawonekeranso mu The Bridal Guide ndi WeddingWire.
Pali zinthu zambiri zomwe muyenera kuziganizira mukafuna kavalidwe kaukwati koyenera, popeza pali masitayelo ambiri, masitayelo, mitengo yamitengo, ndi opanga omwe mungasankhe.Komabe, ngati muli ndi chidziwitso choyambirira cha nsalu zaukwati ndi nthawi yoti muzivale, mudzakhala ndi nthawi yosavuta kupanga chisankho chanu.
Malinga ndi katswiri wa mafashoni a ukwati Mark Ingram, si nsalu zonse zaukwati zomwe zimakhala zofanana, makamaka malinga ndi nyengo.“Anthu amati madiresi aukwati satha, koma izi si zoona.Zovala zolemera za satin, mwachitsanzo, zimakhalabe zosankha zosasangalatsa m'chilimwe, monga thonje sundresses m'dzinja.Madyerero a Ballroom akhoza kuwoneka osayenerera.“N’zoona kuti mkwatibwi ali ndi ufulu wonse wochita ndi kusankha zimene akufuna,” akuwonjezera motero Ingram.Koma m'malingaliro mwanga, pankhani ya diresi laukwati komanso kufunika kwa tsiku lanu, ndimakonda kutsatira malamulo akale a kakhalidwe.
Kuphatikiza apo, Ingram adalongosola kuti kalembedwe ndi silhouette ya kavalidwe pamapeto pake zidatsogolera njira ya nsalu.Zida zina ndizabwinoko pamasitayelo opangidwa bwino, zina ndizowoneka bwino ngati zowoneka bwino, zowoneka bwino, ndipo zina ndizabwino pazovala zowoneka bwino za mpira."Nsalu zomwe ndimakonda kwambiri zogwirira ntchito ndi nsalu zosanjidwa bwino monga mikado, grosgrain ndi gazar," akutero Ingram."Ndimagwira ntchito ndi mawonekedwe komanso mawonekedwe, ndipo nsaluzi zimapatsa chidwi chomanga m'malo mongomva zachikondi."
Choncho, musanayambe kugula kavalidwe kaukwati, yang'anani zomwe muyenera kuyembekezera kuchokera ku mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya nsalu zaukwati lero.Kenako, mothandizidwa ndi malangizo a katswiri wa Ingram, nazi zomwe muyenera kudziwa za nsalu za kavalidwe kaukwati kuti zikuthandizeni kudziwa kusiyana kwa cambric ndi brocade.
Mark Ingram ndi katswiri wazovala zaukwati komanso woyang'anira wazaka zopitilira 40 pamakampani.Kuphatikiza pa mzere wake wodziwika bwino wa madiresi aukwati, ndiye woyambitsa komanso wamkulu wa Mark Ingram Atelier, salon yodziwika bwino ya akwati ku New York.
Nsalu iyi ndi yopepuka, yofewa, ndipo imapangidwa kuchokera ku plain weave, nthawi zambiri ngati chophimba kapena chophimba.Zabwino kwa nyengo yofunda kapena nyengo yachilimwe, nkhaniyi ndi chithunzithunzi cha phwando lapamwamba la dimba.
Brocade imatha kupangidwa kuchokera ku silika kapena ulusi wopangira ndipo imadziwika ndi ma jacquard (machitidwe okweza) opangidwa munsalu.Popeza kuti zinthuzo ndi zowuma koma zopepuka kuposa satin, ndizoyenera kuvala chovala chokhazikika chomwe chimatha kuvekedwa paukwati wanthawi yophukira kapena wachisanu.
Wolemera komanso wotsogola monga momwe dzinalo likusonyezera, nsalu yapamwambayi imakhala yonyezimira komanso mkati mwa matte.Nthawi zambiri amapangidwa kuchokera ku silika (ngakhale njira zina zopangira zilipo), mawonekedwe ake ofewa amawapangitsa kukhala otchuka mu masitayelo oyenda omwe nthawi zambiri amadulidwa kukondera."Nsalu zofewa, zopindika, zowoneka bwino nthawi zambiri zimavalidwa bwino ndi madiresi otayirira, othina, kapena ma bodycon," akutero Ingram.Zinthu zowala kwambirizi ndizoyeneranso kuvala chaka chonse, koma nthawi zambiri zimakhala zonyezimira pamasika ndi chilimwe.
Chiffon ndi imodzi mwansalu zopepuka kwambiri ndipo nthawi zambiri imagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati zokutira, zosanjikiza kapena ngati kamvekedwe kake chifukwa cha mawonekedwe ake.Zopangidwa kuchokera ku silika kapena viscose, zoyenda komanso zoyenda, zinthu za matte izi ndizabwino kwa akwatibwi amtundu wa boho.Kupanga kwake kopepuka komanso kwamphepo kumapangitsanso kukhala chisankho chabwino paukwati wamasika ndi chilimwe, ndipo mawonekedwe ake atsopano amafanana ndi masilhouette ndi masitayilo a mulungu wamkazi.Komabe, ziyenera kukumbukiridwa kuti nsalu zosalimba zimatha kukhala zosalimba kwambiri komanso zosavuta kugwedezeka, kukoka, kapena kusweka.
Wopangidwa kuchokera ku silika wofewa kapena viscose wopepuka, crepe ndi nsalu yosalala komanso yamakwinya yomwe imagwira ntchito bwino ndi masilhouette ofewa.Zinthu zowondazi ndizabwino kukulitsa ma curve, komanso zimagwirizana bwino ndi zowoneka bwino, zocheperako komanso ma jumpsuits aakwati.Madiresi osavuta monga madiresi a mermaid kapena madiresi a A-line ndi zosankha zachikale pansalu iyi, ndipo ndi nsalu zokongola zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito chaka chonse.
Brocade ndi yofanana ndi brocade chifukwa ili ndi mapangidwe a convex ndipo ndi zinthu zopepuka.Mawonekedwe ake (jacquard osawoneka bwino) nthawi zambiri amakhala amtundu wofanana ndi kumbuyo, ndipo nsalu za monolithic ndizabwino kwambiri pamapangidwe opangidwa ndi masitaelo opangidwa.Brocade ndi chisankho chabwino chaka chonse cha masitayelo apamwamba aukwati okhazikika.
Wopepuka komanso wopumira, Dotted Swiss amapangidwa kuchokera ku muslin wokhala ndi madontho a polka otalikirana.Nkhaniyi ndi yabwino kwa masika kapena maukwati akunja achilimwe, makamaka zikondwerero zokoma ndi zachikazi monga madyerero a m'munda.
Dupioni waukali pang'ono amapangidwa ndi ulusi wokhuthala ndipo ali ndi kukongola kokongola kwachilengedwe.Imodzi mwa mitundu yolemera kwambiri ya silika, imakhala ndi mawonekedwe ake kuti ikhale yabwino kusankha masilhouette owoneka bwino ngati mikanjo ya mpira.
Nsalu iyi, yopangidwa kuchokera ku silika, thonje kapena viscose, imakhala ndi nthiti zokhazikika komanso zokhala ndi nthiti.Zovalazo zimakhalanso ndi mapangidwe opangidwa (oyenera zovala zamakono kapena zochepa), zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zoyenera kuvala chaka chonse.
Wopangidwa kuchokera ku ubweya kapena silika, mbawala imawoneka yowoneka bwino komanso yowoneka bwino, osati mosiyana ndi organza.Makamaka, ulusi wa silika, mtundu wofala kwambiri wa zovala za akwati, watenga gawo lalikulu ngati nsalu ya diresi laukwati la Kate Middleton.Zida zolimba koma zowoneka bwinozi zimakhala ndi mawonekedwe ake bwino ndipo zimagwirizana bwino ndi mapangidwe, mapangidwe achikondi ndi masitayilo a siketi athunthu monga mikanjo ya mpira, yomwe ndi yabwino kwa chaka chonse.
Georgette wowonekera komanso wowoneka bwino amalukidwa kuchokera ku poliyesitala kapena silika wokhala ndi pamwamba.Ngakhale kuti silhouette yake yofewa imapangitsa kuti ikhale yapamwamba pamwamba pa diresi laukwati, nsalu yothamanga ndi yabwino kwa ma silhouette achikazi omwe amayenda ndi thupi.Monga lamulo, izi ziyenera kuvala nthawi yofunda.
"Nsalu zodziwika kwambiri za madiresi aukwati ndi lace," akutero Ingram."Monga gulu la nsalu, zimakhala zosunthika kwambiri potengera mawonekedwe, mawonekedwe, zolemetsa komanso zomaliza.Lace imakondedwa kwambiri m'zikhalidwe zambiri.Ndi yofewa, yachikazi, yachikondi komanso yofewa mokwanira kuti igwirizane ndi munthu aliyense.”
Zinthu zokongolazi, zopangidwa kuchokera ku silika kapena thonje, zimabwera m'njira zosiyanasiyana, kuphatikizapo lace ya ku France, monga Chantilly (yoonda kwambiri ndi yotseguka), Alencon (yodulidwa ndi chingwe muzithunzi zowala), ndi Viennese (yolemera komanso yowonjezereka).Kusinthasintha kwake kwapadera kumapangitsa kuti ikhale yoyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito chaka chonse, ngakhale nsalu zolemera (monga Italy Venezia) zimakhala bwino kwa miyezi yozizira.
"Lace amafunikira chithandizo cha tulle, organza, kapena chinsalu kuti chisungike bwino, popeza lace nthawi zambiri imakhala yofewa kwambiri," akulangiza motero Ingram.
Mikado, silika wandiweyani wokhala ndi mapeto owala, ndiwotchuka kwambiri ndipo makulidwe ake amapereka dongosolo lomwe lingasinthidwe ndi zomangamanga ndi mapangidwe ovuta.Ingram ananena kuti ma mikado amatha kuumbidwa ndi kusokedwa ndi zingwe zochepa, kotero kuti “zovala zowoneka bwino, zothina pa mermaid ndi mikanjo ya mpira wopanda zingwe” ndizabwino kwambiri.Izi zitha kuvala chaka chonse, koma kulemera kwake kungakhale koyenera kuzizira kozizira.
Kaŵirikaŵiri amapangidwa ndi poliyesitala kapena silika wandiweyani taffeta, mawonekedwe a mitambo amawonekera powala kuti apereke chithunzithunzi cha madzi onyezimira.(Ili ndi mawonekedwe a wavy pang'ono.) Nsaluyo imatha kukhala yolemera, choncho ndi yabwino kuvala m'nyengo yozizira.
Ngakhale organza ndi yowoneka bwino komanso yamphepo ngati chiffon, silhouette yake ndi yopangidwa bwino, yomwe imapangitsa kuti ikhale yabwino paukwati wanyengo yofunda.Kaŵirikaŵiri amalukidwa kuchokera ku silika, ndipo amakhala wonyezimira komanso wonyezimira.Kuphatikiza apo, izi nthawi zambiri zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pazowoneka zosanjikiza kuti ziwonjezere voliyumu pazovala za mpira, masitima apamtunda ndi zophimba.Zokwanira pazovala zowoneka bwino za thovu ndi mphindi za princess, nsalu yonyezimira iyi ndi chithunzithunzi cha maphwando achikondi komanso owoneka bwino m'munda.Komabe, samalani chifukwa nsalu zosalimba zimatha kugwidwa ndikukoka mosavuta.
Jeresi iyi ili ndi nsalu yoluka kunja.Ngakhale ndi kalembedwe kolemetsa, mawonekedwe ake a preppy amakonda kugwira ntchito bwino masika ndi chilimwe.Zomwe zilinso ndizosakhazikika, zomwe zimalola masitayelo omveka bwino komanso ma silhouette opangidwa.
Ukonde wa polyester, zinthuzi zimasokedwa pamodzi kuti zipange diamondi.Ngakhale kuti nsaluyi imagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zophimba, imathanso kupanga madiresi.Kuphatikiza apo, mawonekedwe ake opepuka ndi abwino kusankha masika, chilimwe, kapena maholide akugwa.Mapangidwe apamwamba komanso zachikondi zakale ndizowunikira zenizeni za nsalu iyi.
Polyester ndi zinthu zopangira zotsika mtengo zomwe zimatha kuluka pafupifupi nsalu iliyonse.Polyester satin, makamaka madiresi aukwati, ndi njira yodziwika bwino yosinthira silika chifukwa imakhala yolimbana ndi makwinya komanso osalimba.Zinthuzi zimathanso kuvala chaka chonse koma zimatha kukhala zosasangalatsa m'chilimwe chifukwa sizimapuma kwambiri.
Ngakhale nsalu za ulusi wachilengedwe zimakhala zopumira, nthawi zambiri zimakhala zokwera mtengo ndipo zimafunikira chisamaliro chochulukirapo chifukwa zimakonda kukwinya.Ichi ndichifukwa chake njira zopangira zopangira zikudziwika, ngakhale Ingram akunena kuti "nthawi zambiri zimakhala zolemera kwambiri, zolimba kwambiri, kapena zotentha kwambiri kwa wovala."
Viscose ndi nsalu yosalala, yofanana ndi silika yomwe imakhala yotanuka komanso yotsika mtengo.Nsalu yopepuka komanso yopumira ya semi-synthetic ndi yabwino kwa maukwati achilimwe, koma imatha kuvala chaka chonse.Ngakhale kuti ndi yotchipa, imakwinya mosavuta.Nsalu yokhazikika ndi yabwino kusankha masitayelo opaka kapena mapangidwe opangidwa.
"Kwa zaka zambiri, akwatibwi ambiri amakonda satin wonyezimira," akutero Ingram."Kukongola kwa satin kwagona pa sheen, kumva ndi kupukuta."Wokhuthala komanso wosalala, satin amapangidwa kuchokera ku silika ndi ulusi wa nayiloni ndipo amakhala ndi ulusi wambiri.Silika satin ndi imodzi mwansalu zachikhalidwe zaukwati, koma chifukwa satin ali ndi mapeto apadera, amathanso kupangidwa kuchokera ku polyester kapena kusakaniza.Kuchulukana kwa nsalu yolimbayi ndi yabwino kwa nyengo iliyonse, koma nsalu yowonjezereka ngati Duchess ndi yabwino kwa miyezi yozizira.Zowoneka bwino komanso zowoneka bwino, izi zimasunga mawonekedwe ake bwino ndipo ndizoyenera kupanga zomangika monga ma ruffles kapena mikanjo ya mpira."Chimene akwatibwi amakono ambiri sakonda ndi makwinya ndi kutsetsereka, zomwe mwatsoka sizingapewedwe ndi silika satin," akuwonjezera Ingram.
Silika wa Shantung amapangidwa kuchokera ku silika kapena thonje muzitsulo zomveka bwino ndi nsalu zabwino zomwe zimapereka mawonekedwe ovala komanso mawonekedwe aiwisi, achilengedwe.Kulemera kwake kwapakatikati ndikwabwino kwa nyengo zonse ndipo kumasunga voliyumu yomwe imawoneka yolemera.Nsaluyo imakongoletsedwa bwino ndipo imagwirizana ndi maonekedwe ndi kukula kwake.
Chimodzi mwansalu zachikhalidwe komanso zamtengo wapatali, silika samangokhalira nthawi, komanso amasinthasintha.Ndi yolimba, imabwera m'mapangidwe ndi masitayelo osiyanasiyana, ndipo ndi yabwino kwa nyengo iliyonse, koma imatha kukhala yolimba m'miyezi yotentha.Silika amawapota n’kukhala ulusi ndipo amaupanga nsalu ndipo amadziwika kuti ndi wonyezimira.Mitundu yosiyanasiyana ndi monga silika gazar, silika mikado, fay, shantung, ndi dupioni.
Taffeta imapezeka mu masitayelo osiyanasiyana ndipo imapangidwa kuchokera ku silika kapena ulusi wopangidwa.Cholemera m'nyengo yozizira komanso yowala m'chilimwe, nsalu yowoneka bwino, yosunthika imatha kupangidwa pafupifupi mtundu uliwonse, nthawi zina kumanyezimira poluka.Nsalu yofewa imakhalanso ndi makhalidwe omwe ali abwino kwa madiresi a A-line ndi mikanjo ya mpira wa skirt.
Sheer mesh open weave tulle ili ndi vibe yowala koma imatha kupindika pansi kuti iwonjezere.Ndiwofewa kwambiri ndipo nthawi zambiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chovala cha madiresi ndipo, ndithudi, ngati chophimba.Zimabwera mosiyanasiyana komanso molimba.Nsalu zodziwika bwino za akwati zikuyamba kutchuka mu masitayelo achigololo owoneka bwino okhala ndi manja ochepa, odulidwa kapena odulidwa.Nsaluyi yopepuka komanso nthawi zambiri yotsika mtengo ingagwiritsidwenso ntchito pamapangidwe a zingwe ndipo imatha kuvala chaka chonse.Kumbukirani kuti nsaluyo imakhala ndi snags.
Velvet ndi yofewa, yokhuthala komanso yomveka yokhala ndi zolemetsa, zabwino paukwati wagwa kapena chisanu.Nsalu yapamwambayi nthawi zambiri imakhala yabwino kwa maonekedwe achifumu komanso kudzoza kwa mpesa.
Kuwala komanso airy, chophimbacho chimapangidwa ndi thonje kapena ubweya wa nkhosa ndipo chimakhala ndi mawonekedwe owoneka bwino.Chovala chachilengedwe chansalucho ndichabwino kwambiri popanga ma silhouette oyenda popanda kupangidwa mopitilira muyeso, ndipo kukongola kwake kokhazikika kumapangitsa kuti ikhale yabwino kwa maukwati osakhazikika.
Zibeline ali ndi unidirectional, wowongoka ulusi woluka komanso kumaliza kowala.Pankhani ya madiresi aukwati, silk siebelin ndiyo njira yodziwika kwambiri yomwe imapezeka muzojambula zambiri.Nsalu yopangidwayi ndi yabwino kwa masilhouette opangidwa ngati ma flares kapena ma silhouette a A-line.